Runway has evolved into a space where fashion meets activism
It was a hot summer day in 2019, I was standing outside the Prada headquarters in New York City, moments before the brand’s Cruise 2020 collection. While all the celebrities were flashing their smiles and making their entry, something else was getting the camera’s attention– a People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) protest. Clutching my leather handbag a little tighter, I witnessed my first major fashion protest which I’d only ever read about until that moment. While activist groups have long targeted fashion corporations, the rise of social media has made it easier than ever to amplify their voices and share their concerns on a global stage.
It’s no surprise that the high-profile runways of Paris and New York have become prime battlegrounds for these movements. Fashion weeks are no longer just about glitz and glamour—they’ve become a stage for activism. Recent seasons have seen more protests than ever, with activist groups aiming for brands they believe are out of step with modern values. The debates are growing louder, covering everything from labor rights and material sourcing to the fate of unsold inventory.
When you think of global fashion weeks, you probably picture glamorous runways, high-profile designers, and front rows packed with celebrities. But behind the glamour and those perfectly staged Instagram moments, these exclusive catwalks are becoming platforms for something bigger. Whether it’s customers demanding accountability, brands aligning themselves with global cultural movements, or designers using their shows to spotlight causes like feminism and Black Lives Matter, the runway has evolved into a space where fashion meets activism. High fashion runways are no longer just about the clothes—they’re about making statements, sparking dialogue, and reflecting the values of a changing world.
What was once a celebration of art and exclusivity has evolved into a dynamic intersection of creativity, activism, and accountability. From London to Paris, protesters are storming the stage, wielding banners and body paint instead of handbags, and demanding accountability from an industry long criticized for its environmental and ethical shortcomings. During Victoria Beckham’s Autumn/Winter 2024 show, PETA activists walked the runway holding banners reading “Viva Vegan Leather” while walking alongside models before being interrupted by security, as captured in videos shared on social media by attendees. Later, PETA UK issued a press release urging the designer to adopt vegan leather alternatives made from eco-friendly materials.
Protests at fashion events aren’t new, but they’ve evolved. Fashion weeks, once untouchable symbols of luxury and art, are now facing the harsh glare of activism. But activism on the catwalk isn’t always limited to outside forces—sometimes, the industry itself takes center stage in these conversations. In Chanel’s Spring 2015 show, models transformed the runway at the Grand Palais into a mock feminist protest, marching with signs that read “History is Her Story” and “Ladies First.” When Baptiste Giabiconi took to the runway waving a “He For She” banner—a tribute to the United Nations Women’s solidarity movement for gender equality and a nod to Sustainable Development Goal 5: Gender Equality—it was more than just a fashion statement. Chanel’s bold stance on feminism was met with widespread applause from the industry, earning praise not just for its creativity but for its message. On Dior’s side, Maria Grazia Chiuri added her voice to the conversation by sending models down the runway for several seasons in slogan tees emblazoned with phrases like “We Should All Be Feminists.” While ethical concerns like fur use, labor practices, and sustainability have long sparked protests at fashion events, the runway has served as a platform for political and cultural expressions, whether coordinated by brands or arising organically.
“From protests to progress, fashion’s top stages drive change”
“The image of Bella Hadid walking down the runway, wearing a statement tee with the message ‘The Future Is Female,’ from Prabal Gurung’s Fall/Winter 2017 collection is seared into my brain forever. At the time, I was a student at the Fashion Institute of Technology looking for some inspiration. It was such a pivotal moment to me,” says Hannah Militano, Web Editor at Only Natural Diamonds. With its concentration of influential figures, from editors and buyers to celebrities, Fashion Week has become a prime target for activist groups looking to make a statement. The sheer visibility of these events offers a unique platform to amplify causes and protesters have seized the opportunity to confront issues like fur, leather, and unsustainable practices. Environmental group Extinction Rebellion, for instance, staged a dramatic protest at the London Fashion Week, from staging a funeral with coffin and flowers to pouring fake oil outside the official venues.
So, are all these headline-grabbing protests driving change within the industry? It seems they might be. Take Prada, for example—after discussions with PETA, the brand committed to phasing out fur entirely, marking a significant win for animal rights advocates. Chanel, too, has taken a groundbreaking step by becoming the first luxury house to ban the use of exotic skins in its collections. This bold move came after years of relentless pressure from animal rights groups, set many more brands like Armani to Burberry to also ban the use of exotic animal skins.
Since the PETA protest I witnessed back in 2019, and Prada’s decision a year later to stop using fur, a lot has changed in the fashion industry and its relationship with activism. These protests, whether on the catwalk or in the streets, have proven their power to challenge the industry’s status quo and force it to confront uncomfortable truths. Fashion has always thrived on reinvention, but today, reinvention is about reimagining its role in a world demanding responsibility and transparency.
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